• Valve handle spins but won’t close

    Valve handle spins but won’t close

    Quick Answer:

    If a valve handle spins freely but the valve won’t stop flow, the internal stem or seat is likely damaged or blocked by debris. Immediately isolate the supply if possible, inspect the valve, try to clear debris, and be prepared to replace the valve if the internal parts are stripped or corroded.

    Why This Happens

    A valve handle that spins without closing usually means the handle is no longer engaging the valve stem or the stem is stripped, corroded, or broken. Other causes include mineral buildup, debris lodged at the seat, or a worn packing nut that lets the stem turn without moving the gate or ball. Older valves and valves used rarely are more prone to this failure.

    Step-by-Step What to Do

    1. Isolate the supply

    • Shut off the nearest upstream valve or the main water supply to stop flow before you touch the faulty valve.
    • Open a downstream faucet to relieve pressure and drain lines so you have less water to deal with during inspection.

    2. Inspect the valve

    • Look for obvious signs: a stripped handle splined to the stem, corrosion around the stem, or a loose packing nut.
    • If the handle itself is loose, try tightening the retaining screw. Do this only after the supply is isolated.

    3. Flush debris from the line

    • With supply isolated and downstream open, loosen the valve slightly (if able) or remove the valve bonnet following manufacturer guidance to check for debris.
    • Flush the line by briefly opening upstream isolation (if safe) to wash out grit that may jam the seat. Keep a bucket and rags ready to catch water and debris.

    4. Test the stem and packing

    • Try operating the stem gently: if it moves but doesn’t open/close, the internal mechanism may be damaged. If the stem is seized, a small amount of penetrating lubricant can help, but do not force it.
    • Check for leaks around the stem that indicate packing failure; tightening the packing nut a little can sometimes stop leaks, but it won’t fix a stripped stem.

    5. Replace the valve if needed

    • If the stem is stripped, the seat is damaged, or the body is corroded, plan to replace the valve. For threaded or sweat connections you are comfortable with, you may be able to replace it yourself; otherwise call a pro.
    • When replacing, choose a valve type and size that match the existing pipe and system pressure. Test the new valve by slowly restoring supply and checking for full shutoff and leaks.

    6. Restore supply and test

    • Turn the supply back on slowly and watch for leaks. Exercise the valve a few times to confirm it opens and closes fully.
    • If you see drips after shutting the valve again, review repair steps or consult resources like **Shutoff valve dripping after reopening** for troubleshooting persistent drips.

    What Not to Do

    • Do not force the valve — forcing can break the stem or split the valve body and make the problem worse.
    • Do not ignore leaks — even a small leak can cause damage and will usually get worse.
    • Do not apply excessive heat, cutting, or aggressive hacksawing on a pressurized line; always isolate and depressurize first.

    When to Call a Professional

    Call a licensed plumber if:

    • The valve is the main house shutoff or you can’t isolate the water safely.
    • The valve body is heavily corroded, leaking badly, or the stem is broken off.
    • You are unsure how to replace the valve or the piping connection is soldered, brazed, or glued and requires specialized skills.
    • If you’ve tried repairs and the valve still won’t operate or refuses to reopen fully — see **Valve won’t reopen fully** for related guidance.

    Safety Notes

    • Always shut off and drain the section of piping you will work on to avoid unexpected spray and water damage.
    • Wear eye protection and gloves when working with valves to protect from debris and pressurized water.
    • If the valve is on gas piping or you suspect a gas line issue, do not attempt repairs yourself. Evacuate the area and call a professional immediately.

    Common Homeowner Questions

    • Why does the handle spin without stopping the water? — Internal parts are stripped, corroded, or blocked by debris, so the handle no longer engages the mechanism.
    • Can I temporarily fix it with lubricant? — Lubricant may free a slightly stiff stem but won’t fix stripped gears or a damaged seat; consider it a temporary measure only.
    • Is replacing the handle enough? — Often the handle is fine; the problem is inside the valve. Full valve replacement is commonly required when internal parts fail.

    FAQs

    • Q: Is it safe to leave a spinning handle overnight? — No. Isolate the supply and stop the flow; a spinning handle means the valve may fail to stop leaks.
    • Q: Will tightening the packing nut fix the problem? — Tightening can stop stem leaks but won’t repair a stripped internal mechanism.
    • Q: How long does a replacement valve job take? — For a straightforward residential shutoff, expect 30–90 minutes; more complex piping takes longer.