Quick Answer:
If the stopper won’t close, first check that the lift rod and the pop-up linkage under the sink are connected and aligned. Often the stopper is simply not seated in the drain opening or the pivot linkage has come loose. A few simple checks and a quick reattach will usually fix it.
Why This Happens
- The lift rod or clevis clip has slipped out of the pivot rod, so the stopper no longer pulls down.
- Debris under the stopper keeps it from seating flush in the drain opening.
- Corrosion, a bent pivot arm, or a broken clip prevents proper movement of the linkage.
- Less common: the stopper itself is damaged or assembled incorrectly after cleaning.
Step-by-Step What to Do
Step 1 — Look under the sink
- Place a towel or small bucket under the drain to catch any drips.
- Use a flashlight and inspect the pivot rod and clevis (the flat metal strap attached to the lift rod) for obvious disconnection or damage.
- Confirm the lift rod is connected and the stopper is seated in the drain opening by gently operating the lift rod and watching the pivot movement.
Step 2 — Test the linkage
- With one hand on the lift rod, watch the pivot rod where it enters the drain body. The pivot should move in and out as you move the lift rod.
- If the pivot doesn’t move, the clevis clip may have come off or the connection is loose. Tighten or re-seat the clip so the pivot and clevis align.
Step 3 — Remove and inspect the stopper
- To remove the stopper, lift it and twist slightly while pulling up, or detach the pivot rod if needed so the stopper comes out easily.
- Check the bottom of the stopper and the drain seat for hair, gunk, or mineral build-up. Clean both so the stopper can seat fully.
- If the stopper pops out but still won’t seat properly, it may be assembled incorrectly or worn. Reassemble correctly and try again.
Step 4 — Reassemble and test
- Put the stopper back into the drain and reconnect the pivot rod and clevis clip, making sure the clevis is on a slot that allows full travel.
- Operate the lift rod several times to confirm the stopper closes and seals. Adjust the clip up or down one notch if travel is too short or too long.
Step 5 — If movement seems correct but it won’t seal
- Make sure the stopper is seated flush. Small bits of debris or a worn rubber gasket can stop a seal.
- If the stopper is intact but the drain stays open, see this note on Pop-up moves but drain stays closed for related issues.
What Not to Do
- Do not force the stopper down hard if the linkage is binding.
- Do not use excessive pliers pressure on the pivot rod—this can bend or break the arm.
- Do not pour strong chemical drain cleaners to try to dislodge mechanical problems; they won’t fix linkage issues and can be hazardous.
When to Call a Professional
- If the pivot rod, clevis, or drain body is broken or corroded and parts need replacement.
- If the drain assembly must be removed to repair damage, or if the leak risk under the sink is present when you disconnect parts.
- If you tried basic adjustments and the stopper is still not closing, or if the problem repeats quickly after repair. You may also find useful guidance in articles about a Stopper stuck in open position.
Safety Notes
- Wear gloves and eye protection if working under the sink—old connectors or sharp edges can cut your hands.
- Have a towel and small bucket ready to catch any water when you disconnect the pivot rod.
- Avoid aggressive chemicals near rubber parts; they can swell or deteriorate gaskets and seals.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Why won’t the stopper stay down after I push the lift rod?
Usually the clevis clip is on the wrong hole or the pivot rod is loose; adjust the clip so the pivot has full travel. - Can I replace the pivot rod or stopper myself?
Yes—most are inexpensive and designed for DIY replacement if you can access the parts under the sink. - What if the stopper seals but water still drains slowly?
Slow drainage is usually a clog further down the pipe, not a stopper problem. Clearing the trap or using a plunger is the next step.