Quick Answer:
If you turned the water back on and your shower has no water while other fixtures work, it’s usually a local issue at the shower valve, aerator/screen, or diverter. First confirm you followed the correct steps to turn the water back on safely. Then check the shower handle limits, test hot and cold separately, and inspect the shower head and cartridge for debris before calling for help.
Why This Happens
- Debris and sediment from the main line or recent work can lodge in the shower head screen, cartridge, or diverter and block flow.
- Many showers have small isolation stops or limit stops that may be closed or set to prevent full handle travel; these prevent flow even when the house supply is on.
- If only hot or only cold is missing, the problem is usually on that side of the valve or an upstream isolation valve.
- On tub/shower combos, a stuck diverter or clogged shower head often causes no flow at the shower head while the tub spout still works.
Step-by-Step What to Do
1. Confirm the main supply and nearby shutoffs
- Make sure water is actually on to the house and you didn’t just partially open a valve. If you’re unsure where to find the main shutoff, check the main water shutoff valve location in your home (basement, crawlspace, or near the meter).
- Turn a few other fixtures on briefly (kitchen sink, laundry) to confirm the house supply is active and pressurized.
2. Check the shower handle and stop limits
- Some valves have a stop or screw behind the trim that prevents the handle from turning fully. Remove the handle trim screw and make sure the stop hasn’t been set too tight.
- Don’t force the handle; gently test full travel and note if it feels limited or stops abruptly.
3. Test hot versus cold
- Turn only hot and only cold separately. If one side works and the other doesn’t, the problem is likely an isolated supply or the cartridge’s hot or cold side is blocked.
- Knowing which side is affected narrows the troubleshooting steps and parts you might need.
4. Verify nearby isolation valves
- Some showers have small shutoff valves (stops) behind an access panel or under the tub. Make sure those are open.
- If you don’t see an access panel, check an adjacent closet, basement wall, or under a nearby sink for service valves.
5. Remove and rinse the shower head and screen
- Unscrew the shower head or use pliers with a cloth to protect the finish. Check for a small rubber screen or aerator and rinse it under water.
- Soak the head in a vinegar-water mix if mineral scale is present, then reattach and test. This often restores flow if debris is the cause.
6. Test the tub spout versus the shower head (combo)
- If the tub spout produces water but the shower head does not, the diverter that directs flow to the head may be stuck or clogged.
- If the shower head has flow but the tub spout does not, the problem could be the diverter or internal valve routing. Note which outlet works to guide your next step.
7. Check the cartridge or valve for debris (only if comfortable)
- Before removing a cartridge, shut off the appropriate water supply (house main or local stops) and drain the valve by opening the faucet.
- Remove the trim, extract the cartridge per the manufacturer’s instructions, and inspect for grit or broken pieces. Rinse with water and reassemble. If the cartridge is damaged or you’re unsure how to remove it, stop and call a pro.
What Not to Do
- Do not force the handle.
- Do not overtighten trim screws.
- Do not use harsh chemicals inside the valve body.
- Do not keep running if you see leaking behind the wall.
When to Call a Professional
- No improvement after cleaning the head and checking stops or you can’t access the valve cartridge safely.
- Signs of a leak inside the wall (wet drywall, paint bubbles, or water pooling). Stop using the fixture and call a plumber immediately.
- The cartridge is corroded, stuck, or there’s damage to the valve body that requires replacement.
- You’re uncomfortable shutting off the main supply or removing valve components — it’s better to call a pro than cause a bigger leak.
Safety Notes
- Turn off the water supply before removing trim or a cartridge. Use towels and a bucket to catch residual water.
- If you must open a wall or access panel and you see extensive water or mold, hire a professional to assess the damage.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when working with plumbing parts. Avoid inhaling fumes from cleaning solutions; prefer vinegar for mineral scale.
- If you see active leaking inside a wall, stop and call a plumber; continuing to run water can cause major damage.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Why do other faucets work but not the shower? Usually the shower valve, diverter, or shower head is clogged or has a closed isolation stop—even though the house supply is fine.
- Can I fix a clogged cartridge myself? You can inspect and rinse a cartridge if you know the model and how to access it, but stop and call a plumber if it’s corroded or difficult to remove.
- How long should I troubleshoot before calling a plumber? If you’ve tried the basic checks (head/screen, stops, hot/cold test) and there’s no change within 30–60 minutes, or if you find leaks, call a professional.