Quick Answer:
If your sink is draining slower right after a faucet install, the most common cause is loose debris or packing material that got trapped around the aerator, pop-up, or in the drain during the work. Start by testing flow, then remove and rinse the aerator and check the P-trap before doing anything more invasive.
Why This Happens
- Install work can dislodge small bits of plumber’s tape, solder, mineral scale, or pieces of packing that travel into the faucet outlet or drain.
- An aerator or flow restrictor can catch that debris quickly, slowing the sink more than the pipes do.
- Debris can collect at the pop-up assembly or in the P-trap, which is a low point where solids settle.
Step-by-Step What to Do
Step 1 — Test the flow
- Run hot and cold separately to see if one side is worse.
- Note whether the slowdown is immediate (pointing to aerator) or builds up (pointing to deeper clog).
Step 2 — Remove and rinse the aerator
- Grip the aerator at the faucet tip. If it’s tight, wrap a cloth around it and use pliers gently to avoid scratching the finish.
- Unscrew the aerator, rinse it under running water, and tap out any debris. If parts are clogged, soak briefly in vinegar to dissolve mineral deposits, then rinse and reassemble.
- Replace the aerator and test the flow again.
Step 3 — Check the sink strainer and pop-up
- Remove any visible debris from the sink strainer and open the pop-up to inspect for hair, tape, or packing material.
- Operate the pop-up up/down while running water to see if flow improves.
Step 4 — Inspect the P-trap
- Place a bucket under the P-trap, loosen the slip nuts, and remove the trap. Expect some water and debris.
- Clear and rinse the trap, then reassemble and test the drain.
- If the trap is clear but the sink is still slow, debris may be farther down the line.
Step 5 — Try a gentle mechanical approach
- Use a sink plunger first (block the overflow if present) to dislodge soft clogs.
- If needed, a short drain snake for sinks can reach past the trap; use it gently and avoid pushing hard.
What Not to Do
- Do not force debris deeper into the drain.
- Avoid pouring strong chemical drain cleaners after a recent install — they can damage seals and finishes and make leaks worse.
- Don’t overtighten or force fittings when reassembling the P-trap; cross-threading and cracking plastic parts are common mistakes.
When to Call a Professional
- Water still drains slowly after you’ve removed the aerator, cleared the pop-up, and cleaned the P-trap.
- You see sewage smell, backups in other fixtures, or repeated clogs — those suggest a deeper line issue.
- If the new faucet or nearby piping leaks after reassembly, or if you’re uncomfortable taking the trap apart.
- For related installation concerns like Drain clogs after trap replacement or Sink pressure changed after repair, a plumber can diagnose and fix hidden problems quickly.
Safety Notes
- Wear gloves and eye protection when removing the P-trap — the water can contain bacteria and debris.
- Turn off the water supply before doing any repairs that require disassembly beyond the aerator.
- Have a bucket and towels ready to catch spills when you open the trap.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Q: Could the aerator really be the cause? A: Yes. It commonly traps debris and mineral deposits during installs.
- Q: Is it safe for me to remove the P-trap? A: Yes, if you’re comfortable with basic hand tools and use a bucket to catch water.
- Q: Will using a drain cleaner help quickly? A: No — avoid harsh chemicals after an install; they can harm seals and finishes and aren’t guaranteed to clear physical debris.