Quick Answer:
If you find debris in the aerator soon after a repair, first remove and clean the aerator, then briefly flush the faucet lines with the aerator off. That clears loose sediment in most cases and lets you see whether anything more serious is wrong.
Why This Happens
Repairs to the faucet or drain can dislodge mineral scale, plumber’s putty, sand, or bits of solder/pipe dope. That loose material can flow into the aerator screen and trap there. The aerator is a convenient collection point, so it often shows the problem first even when the rest of the plumbing is fine.
Step-by-Step What to Do
Tools and prep
- Towel or small bucket to catch drips
- Pliers or an aerator key (if needed)
- Old toothbrush or small soft brush
- Vinegar (white) or mild detergent and water
1. Turn off and protect
Shut off the faucet and place a towel in the sink to catch parts. If you recently worked on the drain, clear the area under the sink so you can access shutoff valves if needed.
2. Remove the aerator
- Unscrew the aerator by hand; use pliers wrapped with tape only if it’s tight.
- Keep the small parts together so you don’t lose the screen or washers.
3. Clean the aerator thoroughly
- Disassemble the aerator pieces and rinse to remove loose debris.
- Soak the metal screen and housing in vinegar for 10–20 minutes if mineral scale is present.
- Use the toothbrush to scrub the screen gently, then rinse well with water.
- Only reinstall once all visible debris and discoloration are gone.
4. Flush the lines briefly
- With the aerator removed, turn the faucet on full for 15–60 seconds to flush loose sediment—start with cold, then run hot if applicable.
- Have a bucket or towel ready to catch water; direct it down the drain or into the sink.
- If water runs clear and you see no further debris, turn the faucet off and inspect the aerator before reinstalling.
5. Reinstall and test
- Put the clean aerator back together and hand-tighten it.
- Turn on the faucet and check flow, spray pattern, and for any new debris.
- If the aerator clogs again immediately, leave it off and proceed to the next steps or call a pro.
What Not to Do
- Do not reinstall a dirty aerator. Reinstalling it will trap debris again and hide the problem.
- Don’t point high-pressure water at exposed plumbing or wiring under the sink.
- Don’t pour strong chemical drain cleaners down the sink to try to clear particles that are visible in the aerator; they’re unnecessary here and can be hazardous.
When to Call a Professional
Call a plumber if:
- Flushing with the aerator removed does not clear debris or water remains discolored.
- Water pressure is still very low after cleaning and flushing.
- You see leaks or misalignment after the repair—especially if the sink or drain hardware looks shifted or water is pooling under the sink. For related issues see Sink drain alignment issues after repair and check for any visible damage or loose fittings. If you have active leaking that won’t stop, consider Sink leaks after drain work and shut off the water supply while you wait for help.
Safety Notes
- Be careful with hot water when flushing lines—run cold first, then hot, and avoid scalding.
- If you must use pliers, pad the aerator with tape or cloth to avoid scratching metal finishes.
- Avoid mixing cleaning chemicals; vinegar is safe for mineral deposits but not for all finishes—test on a small part first.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Why did this happen right after the repair? — Small particles are often dislodged during work and flow to the aerator as the lowest-resistance trap.
- How long should I flush the lines? — Typically 15–60 seconds per setting until water runs clear; longer only if you still see debris.
- Is it okay to use a new aerator if mine is old? — Yes, replacing a corroded or damaged aerator is fine, but only install a new one after flushing and confirming lines are clean.