Quick Answer:
If an exterior faucet keeps dripping or won’t fully close, stop the water at the nearest shutoff, relieve pressure, then check the packing nut and internal washer. A worn rubber washer or a loose packing nut are common causes; inspect the seal when you reassemble and test. If you can’t stop the leak after basic checks, call a professional to avoid water damage.
Why This Happens
- Worn or hardened washer or valve seat — the rubber that blocks flow can shrink, crack, or get mineral build-up and fail to seal.
- Loose packing nut or worn stem packing — water can seep around the stem instead of through the valve seat.
- Corrosion, debris, or freeze damage to the valve body or seat that prevents a clean shutoff.
If freezing is a recent possibility, check resources like Outdoor Spigot Freezes and Won’t Open for how frost damage changes parts. If water coming from this faucet looks cloudy only at first start, see Outdoor Spigot Water Is Milky at Startup for related causes.
Step-by-Step What to Do
Step 1 — Stop the water and make the area safe
Find and close the indoor shutoff for that spigot (often near the foundation or in a basement). If there is no dedicated shutoff, turn off the main water. Open the spigot fully to drain remaining water and relieve pressure before working on it.
Step 2 — Remove the handle and access the valve
Use a screwdriver or Allen key to remove the handle, then unthread the packing nut or bonnet to expose the stem and seat. Keep small parts in a tray so they don’t get lost.
Step 3 — Inspect washer wear
Look at the rubber washer on the end of the stem and the valve seat. If the washer is cracked, flattened, or hardened, it won’t seal. Also check the seat for pitting or mineral deposits that stop a tight seal.
Step 4 — Replace small parts or clean the seat
- Replace the rubber washer and any inexpensive seat or O-ring parts if they look worn.
- Lightly clean mineral deposits from the seat with a soft brush or cloth; don’t file or reshape the seat unless you know what you’re doing.
Step 5 — Turn packing nut slightly
Reassemble enough to test. If the leak is around the stem rather than through the seat, turn the packing nut clockwise a small amount (about a quarter turn) to compress the packing — do this gently. Too much force can strip threads or make the stem hard to operate.
Step 6 — Reassemble, restore water, and observe shutoff seal
Put the handle back on, slowly reopen the indoor shutoff, and watch the faucet as pressure returns. Observe the shutoff seal closely: the spigot should stop flowing when closed and no water should leak around the stem or body. If it still drips, tighten or replace parts as needed or proceed to call a pro.
What Not to Do
- Do not leave leaking spigot unattended overnight.
- Do not force parts with excessive wrenching; that can break the valve body or strip threads.
- Do not apply open flame or heat directly to a frozen faucet — use safe thawing methods or call a professional.
When to Call a Professional
- The leak continues after replacing the washer and tightening the packing nut.
- Valves are corroded, cracked, or the valve body is damaged.
- You cannot find a shutoff to isolate the spigot or the leak is large and risks immediate water damage.
- Signs of interior water damage or mold where the leak has been active.
Safety Notes
- Always shut off the water and relieve pressure before disassembling a faucet.
- Use eye protection when working with mineral deposits or debris.
- If you’re unsure how to reassemble parts or the valve resists normal operation, stop and call a plumber to avoid causing more damage.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Can I fix this myself? Yes, if it’s a worn washer or loose packing nut and you are comfortable using basic tools.
- Will a slow drip cause damage? Over time, yes — water can damage siding, landscaping, foundations, or create mold if left unchecked.
- Will tightening the packing nut always stop the leak? No. Tightening helps stem leaks but won’t fix a worn washer or a damaged valve seat.