No hot water after remodel

Remodeled shower running cold with no hot water.

Quick Answer:

If a newly remodeled shower won’t get hot, the two most likely causes are that the hot and cold supply lines were swapped at the valve or the temperature limit stop on the new valve is set too low. Start by confirming hot water at other fixtures, then inspect the valve handle and the cartridge/limit stop. Small fixes are common; if the valve is behind tile or the cartridge is stuck, call a plumber.

Why This Happens

  • During a remodel the valve and cartridge are removed and reinstalled. If the supply pipes were reconnected backwards, the handle movement and outlet temperatures will be reversed or only lukewarm water may come out.
  • Many modern shower valves include a temperature limit stop (anti-scald) that restricts how far the handle can move toward hot. If the stop is left in the factory or safety position, the shower won’t reach full hot.
  • Cartridges or thermostatic elements can also be installed rotated or backwards, which changes how the valve blends hot and cold.
  • Occasionally the issue is unrelated to the valve—water heater problems or a mixing valve elsewhere will also affect temperature—but the timing after a remodel makes valve orientation and stop setting the most likely culprits. For other timing-related issues, see Shower cold after city outage and No hot water after winterization.

Step-by-Step What to Do

1. Confirm hot water exists elsewhere

  • Run a hot tap at a sink or tub. If those are hot, the water heater is fine and the problem is local to the shower valve.
  • If no fixture is hot, check the water heater and any whole-house mixing valves first.

2. Note handle behavior and signs of swapped supplies

  • Turn the shower handle slowly from cold to hot while watching outlet temperature. If “hot” on the handle produces cold water or the handle direction for hot/cold is reversed, the hot and cold supplies were likely swapped at the valve.
  • Look at the valve body markings if visible: many valves are stamped H/C or have inlet labels. If those are reversed relative to plumbing, the supply lines were swapped during reinstall.

3. Remove the trim to inspect the cartridge (follow your valve instructions)

  • Turn off the shower shutoff or the house water main if you’re unsure. Some valves allow cartridge removal with the service stops closed.
  • Remove the handle and escutcheon to expose the cartridge. Check that the cartridge is seated in the correct orientation; some cartridges are keyed and only fit one way.
  • If you find reversed piping, the correct fix is to reconnect the supply lines to the proper hot/cold inlets or correct the cartridge orientation.

4. Verify and adjust the limit stop per the valve brand

  • Locate the temperature limit stop or clip on the cartridge or valve body. Different brands use a screw, clip, or plastic stop that limits handle rotation toward hot.
  • Consult the valve brand’s instructions for the correct adjustment steps. If you don’t have the paper manual, the stop is usually loosened, the handle moved toward hotter, then retightened. Make only small adjustments and test water temperature between moves.
  • If the limit stop is already at maximum and the water is still not hot, return to checking supply orientation or cartridge installation.

5. Test carefully and restore trim

  • After any adjustment, turn the water back on and test at a low flow first to avoid scalding. Increase flow once you’re confident the temperature is safe.
  • Reinstall the trim and handle once the valve works correctly.

What Not to Do

  • Don’t live with a remodel shower that won’t get hot—installation orientation and limit settings matter and can usually be corrected.
  • Don’t force or hammer parts back into place; that can damage the cartridge or valve body.
  • Don’t remove tile or cut access openings unless you know you need to access inlets—if tile access is risky, a plumber is appropriate.
  • Don’t change the water heater thermostat dramatically in an attempt to compensate for a valve problem; that creates scald risks elsewhere.
  • Don’t work on a pressurized valve without first closing service stops or the main water supply.

When to Call a Professional

  • If the supply lines are behind finished tile and would require cutting to correct.
  • If the cartridge is seized, corroded, or won’t seat correctly after inspection.
  • If you can’t identify the valve brand or you’re uncomfortable shutting main water off and removing the cartridge.
  • If adjusting the limit stop doesn’t restore hot water or if you’re concerned about scalding risks.

Safety Notes

  • Always shut off water at service stops or the main before removing a cartridge. Release pressure by opening a nearby spigot.
  • Test water temperature cautiously after adjustments to avoid scalding. Make incremental changes and retest.
  • Use basic hand tools only and avoid aggressive force. If you encounter resistance, stop and call a pro.
  • If electrical work is present near the shower area, keep water away from outlets and switches and turn power off if needed.

Common Homeowner Questions

  • Why does the handle feel backward? If the supply lines were swapped, moving the handle toward “hot” may deliver cold water; it’s a sign of reversed piping or cartridge orientation.
  • Can I adjust the limit stop myself? Yes, for many valves you can; loosen the stop, move handle slightly toward hot, then retighten and test. Follow the valve brand instructions when possible.
  • Is this covered by my remodeler’s warranty? Often yes—if the valve was installed incorrectly during the remodel, the contractor should correct it. Check your contract and warranty first.

For more related articles, see the No Hot Water at Shower but Everywhere Else hub.

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