Quick Answer:
If a disposal leaks after the house was winterized or left unused, first assume seals or plumbing may have been damaged by freezing or drying. Do a careful visual check for freeze damage, shut power to the unit, then run water slowly while watching seals and joints. Small wet spots around the flange or drain may be fixable; visible cracks or split housings often mean replacement.
Why This Happens
- Cold that reaches the unit can freeze residual water. Ice expands and can split plastic parts, rubber gaskets or solder joints.
- Long periods without use let rubber seals dry, shrink and harden, making them leak once water is restored.
- Connections that were snug before winter can loosen as materials contract and expand, creating new leak paths at the flange, drain lines or unit body.
- If water is seen dripping from the base of the unit, that points toward the motor housing or internal seals — in other cases the leak is at the sink connection or flange, which is a different repair. For help diagnosing common locations, see **Garbage disposal leaking from bottom** and **Disposal flange seal failure**.
Step-by-Step What to Do
Step 1 — Make the area safe
- Turn off the breaker that supplies the disposal and unplug the unit if it has a plug. Never inspect or touch the disposal while it has power.
- Place a towel or a shallow pan under the unit to catch drips while you work.
Step 2 — Visual inspection for freeze damage
- Look for hairline cracks in plastic parts, split hoses, or brittle rubber on seals. Check the disposal body, the drain pipe, and the flange under the sink.
- Note any oil-like wetness near the motor area or clear water pooling at the bottom — oil stains can indicate internal seal failure, while pooling usually means an external joint leak.
Step 3 — Check connections and the flange
- Inspect the sink-to-disposal flange for degraded putty or loosened mounting bolts. Tightening loose bolts gently can stop some leaks, but do not overtighten plastic parts.
- Examine hose clamps and drain fittings; gently squeeze rubber hoses to feel for brittleness or cracks.
Step 4 — Run water slowly while watching seals
- With power still off, run a slow stream of water into the sink. Watch the flange, discharge elbow, and bottom of the unit for any emerging leaks.
- Small damp spots that appear only after water is flowing may be seal or joint issues. If nothing appears, run water a bit longer to let trapped air escape and to test under normal flow.
Step 5 — Decide next steps
- If you see small leaks at a fitting or flange and parts look intact, try tightening connections or replacing a worn hose clamp.
- If you find cracks in plastic components, split rubber seals, or oil coming from the motor area, plan for replacement of the damaged parts or the whole unit.
- Only restore power and run the disposal if you are certain there are no visible cracks and the electrical connections are dry. If you do run it, keep water flowing and listen for unusual noises.
What Not to Do
- Do not skip checking for freeze damage after winterization; if cracks are present, replacement may be appropriate.
- Do not work on the disposal while it has power. Never stick your hand into the unit.
- Do not use strong adhesives or sealants as a permanent fix for split housings or damaged motor seals — these are temporary at best and can be unsafe.
When to Call a Professional
- Call a plumber if you find cracks in the disposal body, any signs of internal oil leaks, or if tightening fittings doesn’t stop visible dripping.
- If the leak is at the flange and you’re uncomfortable removing and reseating the flange, a pro can ensure a watertight reinstall without damaging the sink or disposal.
- If electrical connections under the sink are wet or you suspect internal motor damage, stop and call a professional to avoid shock or further damage.
Safety Notes
- Always turn off the circuit breaker before working on the disposal. Confirm power is off with a non-contact tester if you have one.
- Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and contaminated water.
- Avoid using chemical drain cleaners on a leaking disposal; chemicals can damage seals and components and are hazardous if they leak out during repairs.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Why did my disposal start leaking only after winter?
Cold and disuse can dry or crack seals and plastic parts; restoring water simply reveals those failures. - Can I fix a leaking flange myself?
If you’re handy, you can reseat the flange, replace mounting bolts and putty, or swap a worn gasket; stop and call a pro if the sink or disposal parts look damaged. - Is it worth repairing a disposal damaged by freezing?
If damage is limited to a replaceable hose, clamp or the flange gasket, repair is reasonable; if the motor housing or internal seals are cracked, replacement is usually safer and more cost-effective.