Quick Answer:
A steady drip or wetness around the valve stem usually means the packing material has worn or the packing nut has loosened. First isolate the water supply, release pressure, and inspect the valve. Often you can stop a minor leak by gently tightening the packing nut or replacing the packing ring; if the valve is corroded or damaged, replacement is safer.
Why This Happens
Packing is a soft material wrapped around the valve stem to stop water where the stem passes through the valve body. Over time it can compress, crack, or be worn away by grit and corrosion. Repeated turning, age, freeze-and-thaw cycles, and mineral buildup all shorten packing life. Different valve types and materials age differently, which is why you may see related symptoms such as Angle stop buzzing when partially closed or similar problems described in Quarter-turn valve failure symptoms.
Step-by-Step What to Do
1. Isolate the supply
Turn off the valve feeding that fixture. If it’s not a dedicated shutoff, shut off the building or main supply. Open the downstream faucet to relieve pressure and drain water from the line.
2. Inspect the valve
- Look for corrosion around the stem, cracks in the valve body, or a loose packing nut.
- Note whether the valve still turns smoothly or feels gritty or stiff—this helps decide whether to repair or replace.
3. Flush debris
With the supply isolated and downstream fixtures open, briefly open and close the valve (if it will move) to help flush out debris. Use a clean rag or small brush to remove visible mineral deposits around the stem and packing area before any repair.
4. Try tightening the packing nut gently
Using an appropriately sized wrench, give the packing nut a small quarter-turn. Tightening the nut slightly can compress the packing and stop leaks. Do not over-tighten; excessive force can damage the stem or make the valve hard to operate.
5. Replace the packing if needed
- Remove the packing nut and stem per the valve type instructions.
- Replace the old packing material with a suitable new packing ring or tape for that valve.
- Reassemble and test with the supply on, checking for leaks.
6. Replace the valve if needed
If the valve body, stem, or seat is corroded, cracked, or the valve remains leaky after replacing packing, replace the entire valve. For valves on critical lines or where the valve is seized, replacement is the safer long-term fix.
What Not to Do
- Do not force the valve — forcing can break the stem or seat and cause a larger leak.
- Do not ignore leaks — even slow leaks can cause water damage and mold over time.
- Do not overtighten the packing nut — that can make the valve hard to operate or damage internal parts.
When to Call a Professional
- If the valve is part of a main or supply you cannot isolate safely.
- If the packing replacement doesn’t stop the leak or the valve is seized or heavily corroded.
- If you are unsure how to disassemble the valve or if soldering, cutting, or complex work is required for replacement.
Safety Notes
- Always isolate supply and relieve line pressure before working on a valve.
- Have towels and a bucket ready to catch water when you open the valve or remove parts.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when cleaning or handling corroded parts.
- Avoid makeshift fixes that hide a problem instead of repairing it; water damage can be costly.
Common Homeowner Questions
- Will tightening the packing nut always stop the leak? No. It helps many minor leaks but not leaks from a damaged stem or body.
- Can I replace packing myself? Yes, for basic shutoff valves if you can isolate the supply and follow basic disassembly instructions.
- How long should a repaired valve last? A correctly repacked valve can last years, but severely corroded valves should be replaced.